Improvement in looms for weaving hair cloth



9 Plates- Plate 1.

I. LINDSLEY'.

LOOM FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH.

Patented Nov.'15,1864:.

9 Plates-Plate 2.

I. LINDSLEY.

LOOM FOR WEAVING HAIRCLOTH. No. 45,107. Patented Nov.15,1864=.

a V A -n gm 9 P1ates-P1aie 3. v

I. LINDSLEY. LOOM FOR WEAVIN'G mm CLOTH.

Patented Nov.15,1864.

9 Plates- Plate 4-.

1, L-INDSLEY. LOOK FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH.

Patentell'lov. 15, 1864.

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I. LI'NDSLEY. oon FOR wmvme minnows.

Patented Nov. 15, 1864.

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fix/976607.

9 Plates-P1ate 6. I. LINDSLEY.

LOOK FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH.

No. 45,107. A Pa. ented Nov.15,1864.

I II

9 P1ates-Plate 7.

I. LINDSLEY.

LOOMFOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH No.- 4 0'7.

Patented Nov. 15,1864.

9 Plates-P1ate 8.

I LINDSLEY LOOM FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH.-

Patented Nov.15,1864.

lat Change.

' 9 P1ates-P1ate 9. I. LINDSLEY. LOOK FOR WEAVING HAIR CLOTH. I

Patented Nov. 15, 1864.

4 I Witirvsses: g mlnuerzfior.

looms-for weaving hair-cloth and fabrics, in

thread; and I do hereby declare that the fol- "lowin'gisa full,clear,,and exact description thereof, reference being had to theaccompany ing drawings and the ictters of tion'.

vs elect a single hair or length of weft from a sert the same-in theopen shed of the warp warp,I purpose using that described and set25,1861, as being tlie 'best device kno nection wit 'ing features ofimprovement:

' ating the nipper or device used to insert the andalsoin the meansemployed to reciprocate the said nipper or other device performing itsfunctions in the open sheds of the warp, to

' UNITED STATES ISAAC LINDSLEY, OF NORTH iMPR-QVEMENT m LOOMS FOR PATENTOFFicE.

Rovrnnnon, BHODE Is'Lnno.

WEAVING H IR- CLOTH.

.To aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, ISAAC LINDSLEY, of North Providence, in the countyof Providence and State of Rhode Island, have invented certain new anduseful improvements in powerwhich the weft is inserted in separatelengths of materialinstead of a continuous yarn or reference markedthereon, making part of this specifica- The invention. hereinafterdescribed presupposes the existence of an automatic mechanical device orserving apparatus which will bunch or mass during a. single bef 't ofthe, lathe, and hold it in the proper pdsition to be seized by thenipper or device used to inwith a suflieient degree of certainty andprev cision to enable the operation of weaving to' continueuninterruptedly. Several of the improvements constituting thisinvention, however, are equallyserviceable in case the separateha'irlorlength of weft is selected and presented in the requisite position bythe human hand. Asa suitable and efiicient serving appatus for thusselecting and presenting the selected hair or length'of the wefttothenipper or other device used to insert the same in'the forth in theschedule attached to Letters Patent of the Unite'd' States No. 1,630,(32,634,) granted to me, the said ISAAGLINDSLEY, June wn tome for thatpurpose; but any other efficient device may be used instead thereof inconh the improvements herein described. I

My present invention embraces thefollow- First, the construction andmethod of oper lengths'of weft in the warp in order to insure thecertain seizure of thehair without severing, crushing, or'otherwiseinjuring the same,

avoid undue momentum arising from its rapid .them, that when the end jawof the ni of escape.

movement to and fro. -'To accomplish the firstof these results, theselecting or serving mechanism is so arranged in relationto the nipperand to the mass of hair or weft, which is suitably held in' positiontobe operated upon by p of the hair has been selected from the'mass bythe means before mentioned, or its equivalent, and deflectedand'heldaside from the mass and directly across the 'pathof thenipper,the nipper shall-grasp the same between the selectingtinstruinentand themass while thus held, so that the wefts will be'presented withcertainty-in the same position successiv'ely. In connection with this, Iform one is seized and inelosed beyond theprobability if the jawsof thenipper are closed suddenly upon-the hairwith force the hair is liable tobe crushed and severed, and for the purpose of avoiding this difficultythe nipperis first closed sufiiciently to encompass and secure thehair,"and' atthe commencement of the retreating movement of the nipperthe jaws are made to close gently upon the hair with suiticient firmnessto hold it and draw it from the mass into the shed. And for theaccomplish-' ment'of the latter-mentioned resnltl make use of a toughyet light wooden nipper-staff, which is made to slide to and fro insuitable guides formed in the lathe-beam by means of a strap or bandpassing over a system of fixed and movable pulleys, the latter of which,with the two ends of the said strap or-band, being attached to the looseends of the'treadle-levers,

which areoperated by revolving cams in the usual. way.

The second feature of myimprovement relatesto the mode of working theheddles or harness, by-means of which the changes of the sheds are.ma'dewithin a short po-rtion of the time required for the cycle ofoperations of the loom,,for the purpose of giving the nipper and otherparts connected therewith ample time and space to'perf'orm theirrespective functions during the single beat of the the,

and also'to controllingthe changes of the dies or harness by the supplyof weft; and it consists-in givin g to the cam-shaft which works theheddles or harness an intermittent revoto the nipper ppcr with twoprojecting pegs,'jorv.their equivalent-,which enter the opposite jawthereof in closing, and between which the weft It has been found inpractice that hed- 'lution, with arest between the changesof the-sheds,by means of a ratchet, or, its equivalent, having as many teethor pins as there arepicks in working the round of the; figure, and apawl; or its equivalent, which will move the.

ratchet'one tooth or pm at each beat of lathe, which pawl is controlledin its' opera-l tion upon the ratchet by v to the shed, so that if.theweft is not supplied to the. shed t-he'pawl failsfto act upon. theratchet, and the" heddles or harness remains unchanged until the weft isduly supplied,

when thepawl acts apd-wturns the cam-shaft and opens a newshed forthe'nextshot of weft The third feature of my improvement relates,

to the manner of operatingthe hed'dles or". I harness'w'hichfo'rmsthenselvage in; counec tion with ;the heddles or harnessj that forms thebody of the clothto prevent the formation of an overshot of weft ofundue length where the body and selvage join-at acertain period inthe-round of changesof the heddl'es or harness; and it consists in'soarranging the cams that operate 'the' selva-ge heddles or harness, incombination withp-the" cams that operate the heddles that form thebody-of the cloth,- that at each round of the figure'the 'selvage-shed,will be held open during t-wopicks and receive two shots of weft.

The fourth feature of. m'y-impro'vement relates to the mechanism forletting ofl'or deliv erin g the warps and taking up the woven'clo'th asit is produced; and it'consists inso combi-n-JJ;

and a positive "f-l'et-' off? (by which I mean devices that take up andiug a positive take-up.

compensate for or counteract certain difficulties in weaving hair-cloththat I will men tion.

The weft-hairs being moistened when they.

are woven, which moistens the warpsin same degree, and-theselvage beingof a different texture from the body of the goods, the anequalshrinkage-of those parts in drying isliable to leave the weft lying in acurved direction across the web, instead of straight. This part of myinvention therefore consists in giving a curve or form to the reed so as'to place the weft inthe cloth with a' curvature just sufficient tocounteract the effect of the unequal shrinkage mentioned.- I

The sixth feature. of my improvement re-- lates tothe operation of theautomatic serving apparatus used lengths-of "hair or weft and presentthe same to the nipper, by which they are drawn into the shed, and itspurpose is to arrest the op-. eration of the serving mechanism, toprevent the .nipper, from coming in contact with the said mechanism andinjuring it and it consists in comthe supply of weft v The seventh.-

L'hair.

me that when thev the hair." Fig. 4 is an endelevation Fig. 5 isafull-s'ize plan of the device Whichfopens the nipper in the act ofrele'asin g {the hair when it has been drawn into the same.

, frame of the a to select the separate as it advances to seize thehair,-

,bining with the serving mechanism a detent .or stopv so-arranged as towork in: concert withT-theznipperand ar est the operation oftheserving.mechanism in a position out of the wayfof the nipper when itadvances to seize. the hair,,and to rele'ase the serving e'chanismfasscones-the selected hair is drawnoift'of theEbunch.

ends ,from interferingwith the. operation of the contiguous parts ofthe-machine;

: .Toenable others skilled-in the arttomake and use my invention, I willproceed toidescribe the 'constructionand operationof thesamQ bymeans-'ofithe.accompanying drawings,'in Which' Plate- '1 Figures 1 a1nd2' are perspective, views of the said hair-cloth general arrangement, ofthe parts.

Plate II: Figs. 1 and 2are perspective views of the 'said machine,showing the general ar- .rangementof the parts at the reverse end'of'the same;

Plate Ill: Fig. 1' is a perspective View of the said-nipper and thedevices by which' it is opened and closed at theproper time, showingthenipper in' the position of seizing the Fig.. "-2 is a perspectiveview of the samenipper and'devices, showing the former in the positionof releasing the hair after haying draw-nit into the warp.

-Plate IV: Fig.1 is'a full-size" plan of said nipper. Fig. 2 is alongitudinal section ofthe Fig. 3'. ma full-size plan of thedevice'which-opens seizingof the sanie, showingfully its construction.

and closes the said n'ip'perin the" actof warp. Fig; 6is an endelevatioii o'fthe-same. pPlate V-z Fig.1, is an end elevation of-theframe of themacliine and of those parts which impart the nip-per for-.the in'sertion: or the weft-in. the Wa reciprocating 'inovement'to theFig. 2 is a front elevatio'njof the same. Fi 3 represents the nipper inthelact' ofseizing the selected hair as-it. isedeflected and held by thelance k -:for-that purpose.

, Plate VI: Fig. lis-anend elevation ofthe feature .of my improvementconsists. in the employment of a suitable Tclipy: pingdevice,-toclipxthe straggling ends of the" bunch of hairorother'weftfito preventsaid.

machine and 'of those partslooni, showing the which operate and controlthe action of the several sets ofheddles or harness. 4, 5, and 6 aredetails, which the description proceeds.

Plate VII: Fig; 1 is a frontelevation'ofthe frame and those parts of themachine which operate and control the selvagewarpsj Figs '2 and 3 aredetails illustrating the successive changes of the several sets ofheddles or harness. Fig. 4. is a'planof a portion of the lathe and ofthe curved reed R therein.-

Plate VI-II: Fig. 1 is an end elevation of the frame of the machine andof the let-01f Figs. .2, 3, are referred to as and take-up devices,their connections, and the means by which the same are operated.

Fig. 2 'is an elevation of the reverseend of the' same partsand theirconnections. I

p Plate IX: Figs. 1 and2 represent the device u'scd'to arrest .theoperation of the'lance or device used to select the hair orweft' from,.a massat the proper time, as hereinafter specified. Figs. 3 and 4represent the device used to trim or clip off the projecting ends of thebunch or mass. ofhairwhichmay be partially drawn therefrom by therepeated action of thelance k, or from'any othercause. Similar lettersof; reference indicate corresponding parts in all the figures. Inthesaid drawings, B is the frame of the loom, B being thearch from whichthe several sets of heddles or harness ff f f f g 9 go suspended, asshown in PlatesI, II, and G is the lathe, which receives-its vibratingmovement from the'crank b b on each end of the main shaft 1). v v F isthe chm-shaft, which is driven with a 'speed of one revolution to tworevolutions of the main shaft by means of'the gears on each, Plate II.

O is the yarn-beam, E the cloth-beamall of which parts are of the usualconstruction.

I will now proceed to describe the nipper I. (Fully shown in Plates III,IV, and V,) Said nipperis constructed, as shown in-Figs. l. and

20f Plate, IV, with two taperingjaws, i 0', one of which,.i", ismovable, on the'pi'vot e bythe projection'dthereon, sliding against aninclined surface against the force of the spring b, Plate 1V, Fig. 2.The otherjaw isrigid, and, its shank surrounds and is firmly secured tothe wooden nipper-staff J and it will be perceived that the side of' theshank at a is rounded, andthat the end thereof is curved obliquely, asshown, and let intothe wood, and that the corner at .a is coveredandprotected by aplate, 0 which construction has been especially devisedfor the purpose of to the metal shank, from the eontinuous'rapidmovements of the Inip'per between the open sheds of the warp, and toprevent the nipper froin catching and breaking the warps in its passagethrongh.them. In the-movable'jaw preventing the wood from wearing awaynext 03 two pegs,. t t, are inserted about half an finch asunder, whichpegs enter two cavities in 1- the rigid-jawi', as shown. These pegsserve.

to prevent the selected hair or weft fromescaping after the nippercloses in the act of seizing the same, as will presently beexplained. Hand L arethenipper-boxes, which operate and control the movable-jaw ofthe nipper. The former,- H, consists of a cast-iron shell, Plates IIIand IV, having arranged upon one side a friction-roller, 2, in aswing-arm, 3, and adjusted to give the requisite opening to the nip-perby the two set-screws 4. Upon the op posite side of said shell isarranged a swinging wedge, It, upon the stud 5, and a set-screw, 6,protruding through from the outside of the shell, with its point next tothe head of the said wedge- 'Ihe office of said wedge is to depresstheprojection d to open the nipper in the act of seizing the hair, andthe'oftice ofthe protruding point of said set-screw is to arrest thecompleteclosing of the nipper, and thereby prevent the-crushing of thehair thus seized. The nipper-box L serves to open the nipper and releasethe hair after drawing it fully h through the open shed; and to this endit is provided with a friction-roller, 2, arranged and adjusted in likemanner with that just described, and ast-ationary wedge, 7, forming oneside of said box. These nipper-boxes are situated on the bed of thelathe in the pathway traversed by the nipper, as shown in Plate V,

Fig. 2, in the proper position with respect to the warp to admit andinsure the performance of their respective functions.

The lathe G extends over the frame upon the right-hand side to asufficient length to accommodate the requisite length ofthenipper-staif, Plate V, Fig. 2, and is formed with longitudinal guidess 8, etween which the nipper-stafi slides to and fro, the slidingmovement being limited by the block-c on the nipper-stafl' strikingagainst the stops it n on the saidguides; The traversing movement of thenipper-stafl'is effected by means of the strap h,

which is attached to the under side of and di rectly beneath the block0, and-extends in opposite directions longitudinally, passing over thewheels or in the under side of the lathe,

thence over the two sets of fixed pulleys o o and movable pulleys p p,the latter of which, together with the two ends of said strap, beingattached to the ends of the treadle-le'vers R R, swinging vertically inguides j upon a fulcrum on the opposite side of the frame by on thecam-shaft F, Plate V, Fig. l.-

motion derived from the revolving cams r r There are two fixed pulleys oand three fixed pulleyso and two each of the movm ble pulleys pp; and itwill be seenthat by means of this arrangement of fixed andmovablepulleys the extent of motion of the two tread-l'e-levers ismultiplied when transmitted through the strap h to thenipper-stalfifwithout creating any excessive momentum beyond theresistance of the friction produced by the sliding nipper-stafl, andotherwise to suppress and control, and it is this peculiarity of themechanism which renders'it important-and valuable as a means-foroperating the nipperstaft in power-looms for weaving hair-cloth; and itshould be here stated that it is found to, be important in practice thatthe nipperstaff should be as light as possible, and that everythingcalculated to create undue momentum in the nipper-statl should beavoided.

Havingthus described the construction and "arrangementof the nipper andthe appliances p the nipper, asshown in IlateIlI, Fig. 2, and

finto' the warp guntil and is depressed bythe-wedgei, which opens thenipper. and releases the hair, when it is by a continued revolution ofthe cam-shaftF, Plate V, Fig. 1, in the direction indicated by arrowsthe cam r depresses the treadle from the bunch B and presented by thelance or selecting-instrument k, in themanner shown 'in Fig. 3, betweenthe pegs 't t, andto grasp the selected hairz between theselecting-instrument and thepoint-s' of its deflectionfrom the bunch,fasshown. The projection d then slides from the head of: the wedge kv andstrikes immediately against the 'p'ointof the set-screw 3 6, which is soadj usted'as to permit the movable jaw to inclosethe hairfwithoutactually "pressing -it,"when the nipper recedes, and'in so doing theprojectiond slides off the-point of the set-screw; thereby causing thenipper to ;seize theihair swin gs aside, and the hair thus'seize'd isdrawn the projection'd meets beaten up by the reed in the usual way. 1'tis obyiousthat if the'nippers should be closed upon the hairviolentlywith-the full force of--the spring that; shutsthamovable jaw'th'ehair would be crushed and, severed;

zan'fd it is for the purposeo'f avoiding this casualtyi that then ipper.is first-closed suflicien tfly 'to encornpassand secure thefl-hair'within.

its grasp, andflwith the retreating movement of the nipper the restraintvbeforeji nriposed upon-"the spring which closes the nipper' is removed,'which iermits .the hair-to be gently and yet ,firm'ly warpAlthough nippers of various constructions .have been heretofore triedfor the purpose of weaving detached wefts, I am notaware that a. similarmode of operation has ever before been employed to render the nippereifective, .and this mode-"is therefore claimed as one feature otimprovement in myginvention."

I will next proceed'to. describe that part of my invention whichrelates. to the method of opera ting and controlling the action ...ofthe heddles orh'arne'ss, in doing which ,"reference} Will be had 120Plates I, II, 'VI,,,an'd VII, in which f f f 1 f? heddles,.are morepartic a y describedunder l th ead:

Hair-cloth is commonly woven 'wnhfn'v' sheds, and there are five heddles,reach of whifch opens a distinct shed in regular succession. 'llhesehedjdles are operated-by'the'fle .vers N N? N NNi, fulcrum-pin 9,andthecams V VZ'V? V V being connected with both-ends of the said leversby suitable bands passingover the pill shown in Fig. 1.

firmly. flhe wedge 70 then cams in hair-cloth looms,

seized and drawn .in to the of the main shaft 9 are the he'ddles o usedfor the purpose, harness. 'The latter, g4 g beingQthe ,selvageswingrng'on the common leys l l in the arch B" aboive and correspondingpulleys, .P F attached to the cross-pieces B B beneath the heddles, asshown in Plate v The levers N and camsfV are formed as shown in PlateVI, Fig. 6,-j and I, Figs. 1 and 2.

the. cams are arranged on the camshaft w, as Each cam has a projection,a on one side of its periphery, which, in re-- volving in the directi nindic ted bythe arrow, slides against the inclined surface n of thelever N, and swings the upper end of the same to the position shown indottedlines to raise one leaf. of -the heddles; and the rounded cornerof the cam at l slides against the inclined surface a of the lever N,and-returns the opposite end of thesame to the positioninwhich it isshown. .The said cams are arranged onthe cam-shaft a: with respect vtoeach other'in the .order required for opening the sheds in their properorder, and the action of each cam to impart the requisite movement toits lever is produced bfone-fifth of arevolution of the'ca'm-shaft w.

' The arrangement of cams and levers above described by'themselve's formno part of my invention, the same having been previously used inloomsforweaving woolen and other fabrics, but in everyinstance within myknowledge the cam-shaft as has been revolved continuously, and'although.this mode ofi revolving the saidcams is without objection in loomsusing a continuous weft inserted with. each to and fro movement of ashuttle, it is uhsuitable as a-mea'ns for operating the same wherein twomovements of the nipper or device which performs .the functions-of ,ashuttle are necessary for the insertion of one length of weft,in'.consequenceof which it is especially necessary to open and close thesuccessive sheds with at least twice the, rapidity required in using aShuttle and acontinuous weft.. To accomplish this purpose I employ-acam, j on the 'main shaft D as the source of motion, which, with aboutone-third of a revolution,

imparts a suflicient-reciprocating movement to a swinging pawl, w, Figs.1, 3, 4, 5,

. Plate VI, engaging with one of five pins, 3 3

&c., of the ratchet-wheel X on the camshaft m, to turn said shaft andcams one-fifth of arevolutfion, and thereby open the successive shedsone-third of a revolution D, and one-third of a full beat of the lathe,or in one-sixth of the time occupied by the arrangement heretoforesupposing the gears which drive the cam-shaftw-to be of equal of thewarp with size.

.- The operation o'f'theheddlesfl f 3 fif is'controlled in a manner tomake the opening of each"su cceeding shed dependent on the seizure andinsertion of a weft inthe precedingone-by means of the drop-wire a",which engages with the upright arm e" on the lever with a positive siteend, the incline surface of whlehilslldlng against the stud l in theorig W 0ft 0 rocking shaft 11, imparts thereto a suiilcicnt rockingmovement to cause the arm h= to with,

draw the pawl w from engaging \ith the pins 3/ y,'&-c., when the saidwedge s raised, as

shown in F1 g. 3, Plate Vi) and to allow the said pawl to engage withthe pins 3 y, &c., when the said wedge is depressed, as shown in Figs. 2audit. The first condition of the saiddrop-wire a, arm e, leverm cam iwedge b?,;arms W and. h on the rocking shaft, and the pawl to beingfully shown in"Plate VI,. Fig. 1, and Plate I, Fig. 2, the relativeposition of the wedge. b and latter-mentioned parts with the pins andratchet-Wheel being fully shown in Fig. 3, in which it will be seenthatthe fall of the drop-wire a into the position shown in Fig, 1 causesthe pointed end of its lever to catch the end of the arm of of the leverm when it is released by the came", and returns by the action of thespring'o, in consequence of which-the wedge is held in thepositiou'shown in Fig. 3, swinging the rock-"' 'ing arms W and k intothe position shown,

the latter withdrawing thepawl w from engaging with the pin 3 ,thuscausing the ratchet-wheel X ap'd cams V V, &c., .to re-- main whollydisconnected from the source of motion by which thesame are actuated,and the heddles remain at rest and unchanged.

I The second condition of the drop-wire a and its connections, whichresults from the seizure and drawing of the weft into-theopen:

shed, is fully shown in Elate I, Fig. l, and Plate VI, Figs. 2 and 4.'Inthis case the drawing of the weft past the wire a causes theweft totrip and lift the drop-wired with the return beat of the lathe, therebypreventi'ngthe end of the drop-wire lever from catch-- being fullyillustrated by Figs. 1, 2, and 3 of Plate VII 7 In Figs. '1 and 2,-gfgare the sewage-heddles, which are suspended by suitable bands, 1 1 fromthe opposite sides of the rolls S S, so that when one of the said'heddles, 9 is elevated, the'other, g, is depressedjn the usual way."Theheddles are connected by suitable bands, l l, to the levers no,swinging on the common fulcrum u, by motion imparted from the cams r r rr of the cam-wheel M on the cam-shaft 00, which depress the levers v vand their respective heddles alternately, as shown in the severalchanges of the diagram, Fig.2,

thereby forming the selvage of plain cloth,

which has the cream bind the. ends'of the weft more closely and flrmlythan in the body of the fabric, which is required in hair-cloth andsimilar fabrics .to give permanence and stability to the goods, and tofasten the s me by when'used for upholstery purposes.

The difference between, the length of the sewage-loops S. and those ofvthe body of the cloth is fully shown.in Fig. 3, in which'the loopsofhair are represented by black lines, and the divided threads of thewarp are represented in red lines; and it will be perceived that in theselyage the hair passes over one warp-thread and under. the.

next, while the hair or weft in the body of the cloth passes over fourwarp-threads and under one thread, then over four other threads, and. soon, a different combination of four warpthreadsbeing bound in one loopwith each of the five changes. produced by the heddles. In repeatingthese changes, owing to the difference in the number of threads formingthe short loops of the selvage and the long loops of thebody of .thefabric, the weft inserted with the first of ,the series of changesconibines six warp-threads instead of four in one loop next to theselvage, thereby forming a loop of excessive length, and giving anuneven and imperfect appearance to the fabric, to avoid which is theobject of this feature of improvement in my invention; and although I amaware that hair-clothhas heretofore been woven in hand-looms withoutthis imperfec,

tion'by means of a peculiar mounting-of the harness and working of theheddles,.I am not aware that by any automatic or self-operating meansthe said imperfection has been avoided.

This desirable result is accomplished by the arrangement of the cams? rr 1' in the't'ollowing manner:

The cam-wheel M makes one-fifthyofa revolution with, each intermittentrotation of the cam-shaft w, as aboveexplained, and the cams r r r 4*each occupy a position onefifth of the circumference asunder. The cam roccupies a space equal to that of two of the other camsand theintervening space, and is,'1 n fact, two cams united in one, so (thatthere are actually five cams, which I will-distinguish .by the figures 12 3 4, 5 in red, which pro duce the successive i-chang'es of theselvageheddles in the order represented in Fig. 2 with reference toytheother heddles, and as represented in Fig. 3 vwith refereuceto thesucceeding sheds of the warp, to wit: Cam 1 '(red) produces thefirstchange of the selvage-heddles, as shown in Fig. 2, and the hair0I.'W6fl) is inserted in the shed,. as-'shown in the first change, Fig.3; cam 2 produces the second change, as represented; cam 3, the thirdchange; cam 4, the'fourth chauge-,-and cam 5 the fifth change,,an d lastof the series.

With the next rotating movement of the cam-wheel M the first change isrepeated; but as cam 5 and cam Iconstitute one cam, r, instead ofopening the alternate selvage shed, no change takes place,- and a secondthe body of the cloth would contain six forms one feature of improvementin my inwillbe had to Plates II and VIl'I. In these 'taneously-in thesame direction with an equal hair is inserted therein, as shown by thediagrams of the two first changesin Fig. 3. If, on the contrary, thealternates selvage-shed was opened with the'repetition of the firstchange, the first selvage-thread would be one of the upper warps, theweftwould be inserted beneath it, and the adjoining loop, 2, in

threads instead of four, and thus create the imperfection abovedescribed. As'a self-opcrating means, therefore, for ope ating andcontroling the selvge-threadsand the. warp, the arrangement of the camsr r r r, or the equivalent thereof, to effect this purpose vention.

I will next proceedto describe that feature of improvement which relatesto the combination and arrangement of the let-01f and take-up mechanismsand-the devices that actuate the same, in doing-which reference plates,0 is the yarn-beam, P P 'are the press lire-rollers of the let-oft- A isthe breastbeam, Q Q are the pressure-rollers of the take-up, andEisthecloth-beam. The warp K passes from the yarn beam Caround and betweenthe let-ofl rollers P P, thence in the direction indicated by theafrows-through the hed-dles and reed and over the breastbeam A, thencearound and between the take-up rollers Q Q, and is finally wound uponthe cloth-beam E. The said warp is pinched be.- tween the let-offrollers by means of the set-screw 3 in the upper. end of the lever 4, inwhich the roller P has a bearing at-each end, as shown in Fig. 2 of thesaid plates. The

cloth K is also punched between the take up rollers Q Q by-means of thelever as? and the force of the spring f applied to the end thereof,which is exerted on the bearing at each end of the roller Q, as shownIIn addition to this, the warp and cloth are so wrapped around the saidroller that any revolution thereof imparts to the warp a correspondingprogressive movement. The two rollers P and Q are connected and made torevolve simulspeed by means of two equal pairs of bevelgears, k" k, andthecross-shaft 10, extending at right angles with the axis of saidrollers at one end thereof.

The circumference of the take-up roller Q exceeds that of the let-offroller P aboutthree' sixteenths of an inch, to compensate for the.stretching or yielding of the warp produced by the repeated beating ofthe lathe, and the surface of said take-up roller is coated with coarseemery or sand, to render its action positive upon the cloth. The twomechanisms being connected by the cross-shaft 10, as above described,they are both revolved with an equal intermittent movement in the samedirection by means of theactnating device, consistin g of theWOIllLgBftI F on the shaft of the let-oft roller P, and the worm t onthe upright shaft 1 2, the ratchet-wheel mi, and the pawl 14, the latternioving with the swinging 'a-rln g",-which is connected by the rod tothe sword g of the lahe, the source of motion, as shown; and the severalparts of the actuating device beingthus arranged with each beat of thelathe, the pawl 14 turns the wheel m and its shaft 12 to the extent ofone togth (there being generally from twentyeight to thirty-six teeth insaid wheel, according to the number of wefts pntintoan inch slack placein thegoods at the point where the supply of weft failed. To preventthis re- I sult, the pawl 14 is connected by the rod 16 to the arm 17upon the rocking shaft n, the operations of which are controlled by theweft stopmotion, as before described, so that when the weft fails to besupplied to the shed the turning of the shaft a to arrest the operationof the heddles or harness also raises the pawl 14 from the ratchet-wheelm and arrests the operation of the let-off and the take-up, until by theproper supply of weft, as before described, the movement of the shaft nis reversed and the pawl 14 is lowered upon the ratchet-wheel m and itsregular-operation is resumed. By this means it will be seen that,dependent upon the failure or the supply of weft, all the operations ofthe warps are simultaneously and automatically suspended or resumed,which mode of operation also constitutes one feature of improvement inmy invention.

To provide for a disconnection of the take- I up rollers from thelet-off rollers for removing the woven fabric from the loom, or for -anyother purpose, I form one bearing of the cross-' shaft 10 in the lever15, which swings on the stud t on the frame, and is held in the positionnecessary for the meshing of the two bevel-gears k by means of the pin 0passing through'the frame. The take-up rollers may be revolved by handby means of the hand-wheel U and their revolutions are transmitted tothe cloth-beam E by means of the crossed belt or band passing aroundsaid beam and the roller- P, as shown in Plates I and II, Fig. 2, towind the cloth as it is woven or unwind the same, when desired.

I will next proceed to describe that feature of improvement whichrelates to the shaping of the reed or sley to counteract the eflect-s ofshrinkage by the drying of the web after it is woven, in, doing. whichreference will be had to Plate II, Fig. 2, and Plate VII, Fig. 4.

In the selvage of hair-cloth the hair is of necessity bound more closelyandrigidly than in the bodyof the fabric, and the hair which l we ispreviously moistened to prepare it for weavand it is the object of thisfeature of my in-.

vention to avoid this difficulty, to accomplish which I curve the reed Rin, as nearly as possible, the form in which the lengths of weft arecurved by the shrinkage, as before oxplained except that the reed iscurvedinthe opposite direction, as shown in Plate ll, Fig. 2,-and PlateVII, Fig. 4, by which means the moist hair or weft is inserted and beatup in the form of a curve, so that by the shrinkage, which wouldotherwise curve the. weft, it is left straight and at right angles withthe warp. The reed isheld in the requisite curved posi tion by means ofa former, a", of wood, placed between the reed and the straight edge ofthe groove 2 in the lathe and the binder f, which is set up against thereed by means of the two bolts therein, as shown I will next proceed todescribe that feature of improvement which relatesto the means employedto arrest the .operation of the instruinent usedlto select the lengthsof hair or other'weft froma mass when the-nipper advances to seize it,the same being sufficiently illustrated by Figs. '1 and 2 of Plate .Insaid figures, A is a metalplate, which is secured to -a metal plate, Y,extending from the left end of the'lathe-beam G, as shown iii-theseveral figures. A stand, D is fastened upon the metal plate A, in theupper parteof which are formed suitable bearings-for the-shaft a, whichis revolved by means of the grooved pulley b and a band thereonconnecting with another pulley suitably arranged on some revolving partof the machine. The

shaft a imparts a vertical reciprocating movement to the instrument,which selects the lengths of .weft from the bunch at the proper time,as'hereinbefore related, and to provide for the failure of the saidinstrument to select.

a hair or length of weft in its first effort to do so the movement isrepeated until a hair is selected. Should this movement, however,continue after the nipper advances to seize the hair, the nipperwould-be liable to strike against theglance and break it and itsappendages. To prevent this casualty, I arrange onthe stand D a lever orpawl, T which is thrown up into an engagement with the notcheddiskc onthe shaft a by means of the rod 8 and. lever r which han gs upon thelathe, the outer end of which is depressed by passing beueaththestationary incline 1 when the lathe swings back,- as is shown in Fig. 1,thereby arresting the further revolution of the shaft 0. and holdingtheselecting-instruinent up out of the way until the nipper completes itsstrokeand is withdrawn. The pawl T is disengaged from the shaft 0 bymeans of the -finger g, which isembraced by the forked piece t, whichhas a sliding movement parallel to the axis of the shaft a imparted toit by a stationary incline upon the frame, against which the sliding rodor bar '0, that carries the forked piece t, impinges as the lathe swings'orward, as is shown in Fig. 2, or by any other. suitable device, bywhich means the pawl T is pushed aside from the notch of the disk, whenthe spring f restores the lever r and the pawl T to the position shownin Fig.2. In practice I have operated this stop by connecting it withthe stop of the serving-instrument,

constructed substantially as described in .the aforesaid Letters PatentNo. 1,630, and have effected the disengagement of the pawl '1 bymountingthe for edfpiece t upon the sliding rod marked 0 in Fig. 6 ofthe drawings of said patent the movement ofwhich suffices for bothpurposes. This stop, arranged to operate substantially in the mannerspecified, is necessary for the successfulco-operation oftheselectinginstrument and nipper when arranged as before described, andis therefore claimed as one feature of improvement in my inven tion.Iwill next proceedto describe that feature of improvement which relatesto the means employed to trimoff the straggling ends of hair which arepartiallydrawn fronrthe bunch or mass by reason of the repeated.selectioiis made therefrom, in doing which Ishall refer to Figs. 1, 2,3,"and 40f; Plate IX. 7111 Fig. 3'

of said plate, B is the endof the bunch of hair or weft, the same beingconfined beneath the clasp H and b I) represent. straggling hairs whichhave been partiallydrawn out by the other hair which has been drawn fromthebuuch by the nipper. Those straggling ends of hair protrude throughthe spaces between the series of cutting-blades w -ofthe plate U, andthey are clipped off by means of the sliding blade E on the slidingplate 6 the extreme end of which strikes against the post on the frameB, Fig.2, with theforward stroke of the lathe, and slides theblade Epast the hooked edges of the blade 20 thereby cutting offthe protrudingends of the hairs. The sliding blade is returned withthe nextflbackwardstroke of the'lathe by means of the rod 20, secured to the said slidingplate, the end of which strikes against the some convenient part of theframe of the machine, and'slides the plate and blade h back preparatory,to repeating itscutting-stroke, as shown in Fig. 1. This deviceprevents the straggling ends of the weft from being accidentally caught,between the jaws of the nipper and from embarrassing the action of themore delicate selecting mechanism, and is therefore important, and isolaiuledas one feature of improvement in my invention.

Havingt'hus described my invention, I would not be understood asrestricting myself to the particular construction and arrangement hereinsetforth and described, as I claim all modifications in which the samemode of operation is performed by equivalent means.

I claim- 1. So combining and arranging the selecting or servinginstrument and the nippcr and the mass of weft presented thereto, asdescribed, that the end of the weft that has been selected will bedeflected and held aside from substantially as described, to effect thepurpose specified.

3. The mode of operation, substantially as specified, by which thenipper is first closed sufficiently to encompass and secure the hair orweft, and at the commencement of its retreatin g movement the jaws aremade to close gently upon the hair or weft with suflicient force to holdthe same and draw it from the mass into the open shed, substantially asdescribed. 4. The employment of two sets of fixed and movable pullcys,00(1) 1;,01 their equivalent, in combination with the treadle-levers R Rand a suitable strap or band connecting with the nipper-stafi,substantially as described, for the purpose specified.

5. Giving to the cam-shaft, or its equivalent, that works the heddles orharness an intermittent rotation at each change of the shed by means ofa ratchet and pawl or other suitable devices, whose operation uponthecam-shaft is made to depend upon the supply of weft to the shed.

6. The arrangement of the cams 1" r r r, or their equivalent, whichoperate the selvage heddles or harness, substantially as and to efibetthe purpose specified.

7. Combining a positive take up and a positive lu-oif with tle devicrsthat actuate the same, so that when the weft fails to be supplied to theshed their operation will be arrested and will be resumed when the weftis duly supplied.

8. I do not claim theuse of a waved reed for giving a permanent wavedform to the weft; but I do cla-im placing theweft in the cloth by meansof the curved reed or otherwise in such a position as will counteractthe eit'ect of the unequal shrinkage of the parts,

substahtiall y as described.

9. Combining with the automatic serving mechanism a detent or stop, soarranged as to work in concert with the nipper and arrest the operationof the serving mechanism when in a position to be out of the way of thenipper as it advances to seize the weft, and to release the servingmechanism after the nipper has retired, substantially-as described.

'10. In combination with the mechanism which supplies the weft to thenipper, or its equivalent, the employment of a clipping'or shearingdevice, substantially in the manner and for the purpose described.

r'sAAc LINDsLEYQ Witnesses:

ISAAC A. BRoWNELL, GEORGE G. PHILLIPS.

